As direct-to-consumer brands mature, the players in the ecosystem are changing as well.
Venture capitalists, who put money on brands’ balance sheets and have pumped more than $3 billion into consumer brands since 2012, have played key roles in the rise of the DTC darlings.
Private equity investors are now sniffing around the direct-to-consumer category, particularly as more hit $50 million in revenue, and the complexities and logistics of a business start to change. Private equity firms like L Catterton, Diversified Trust and Great Hill Partners have taken notice.
“There are tectonic plates moving in retail. Amazon is at one end of the spectrum, and DTC brands are on the other,” said Michael Kumin, the managing partner at Great Hill Partners. That shift opens up new opportunities for the firm, which has largely focused on categories like software, payments and healthcare with investments in companies like Paytronix and Recruiting.com. More recently, it’s invested in Bombas, Wayfair and The RealReal on the consumer side.
Digiday caught up with Kumin to see what comes next for PE companies going into the DTC category.
What opportunities do you see for private equity firms in the DTC category?
VCs are best at their game when they’re seeding companies and investing before the business models have formulated or locked in, when companies are getting their footing. Once they get to a certain point — for these e-commerce businesses it’s typically $50 million-plus — that’s when private equity typically comes in. We invest when the business model and unit economics are set, because we want to invest in businesses that are profitable. VCs are more comfortable with a lack of profitability. The challenges of a business scaling from $50-100 million in revenue are more challenging than the first $50 million. But, VCs are now late-stage investing, and we’ve gotten more comfortable being a growth fund, so the lines have blurred.
Overall, private equity investors are figuring it out now. They’re burdened by their own history of the businesses they’ve invested in, which were lower-growth models, and now they’re trying to pivot. But the business models and the pattern recognition is different. These are direct marketing businesses, which take a different understanding than something like a brick-and-mortar roll out, and they don’t have the profit profile private equity typically looks for. You have to be willing to look at a business differently — the attributes look different.
What are the patterns you’re looking for in terms of investments?
Early e-commerce businesses are often single-product, single-marketing strategy. Moving to scale when you’re multi-product, multichannel, the challenges are different. Some of these companies have grown up on social or search but don’t have experience in TV, radio or out of home. Having pattern recognition in how you do that is helpful. Strategizing around questions like third-party logistics vs. in-house and when to scale internationally is key. There are a lot of pitfalls, and there’s no one silver bullet. A brand’s success depends on a combination of a number of factors.
What is the next milestone for these brands? Going public?
No one’s gotten to that scale. You’re going to want to see these guys have $300-$500 million in revenue, and profitably, or at least have a pretty clear path before it makes sense to tap the public markets. The business opportunity has to be large — they’ll have to show a broader game plan to prove their worth.
What do you look for in companies you plan to invest in?
We look for moats. If you look at a company like Wayfair, there’s technology, there’s complexity. You can see what they’re investing in that will create that moat. It’s harder for these digitally native brands. Look at Bombas: It’s a sock business. That’s a more traditional consumer brand, so you have to believe in product design, branding and positioning to find the nuances. Any of these companies can get to substantial scale. They’re offering a compelling proposition with a broad selection and what are they competing against? Brands that did not have much customer loyalty. You can carve out a significant piece of the market that way. The ability to scale is different than the ability to build barriers. The barriers are less substantial. They stand for something different for every company. But overall, what you’re seeing is a 10 to 20-year shift — the brands I grew up with are not guaranteed to be the brands of the future, and there’s going to be a shift in market share to the brands that directly connect with customers and have something to say. That’s the value transfer we’re currently targeting. — Hilary Milnes
Kohl’s makes it Amazon official
Kohl’s announced Tuesday that it would begin accepting Amazon returns at all 1,150 store locations in July, after nearly two years of testing the service that brought the pilot to 100 stores.
It’s a foot traffic play. Customers can bring any Amazon purchase, unpackaged and without a return label, to Kohl’s, which will then take care of the return for free. Hopefully, they’ll stay and shop. Maybe they’ll stay and shop Amazon products, like the Echo, which Kohl’s stocks in stores as part of the deal. By adding convenience to customers’ lives, Kohl’s is betting that incremental sales will follow.
Kohl’s Amazon playbook speaks to the larger identity crisis riddling physical retail, which has seen more stores close this year than 2018 as debt-saddled stores cave to pressures. Retailers now have to strike the right balance between convenience — offering customers the right options at the right times — and experience, and making sure that one isn’t being sacrificed over the other.
“The idea of a retail apocalypse is overblown, but retail is changing fundamentally. That has different implications. All of the growth in retail is online, either through online retailers like Amazon or omnichannel retailers, who see their online business growing. Physical store business is flat or down,” said Ed Fox, a retail research professor at the Cox School of Business.
For Kohl’s, cozying up to Amazon underpins other efforts it’s made to make the in-store shopping experience more efficient, and not just in service of catering to Amazon’s returns. In the past few months, it’s rolled out BOPIS lockers, and pushes customers shopping online to pick up items in stores by offers Kohl’s Cash incentives at checkout. It consolidated its rewards program to function more easily. It’s also enabled RFID product tracking to get accurate inventory reads, ensuring that items can be easily found and delivered most efficiently. Kohl’s has also been experimenting with an in-store analytics tool to help store managers respond to customer data insights in real time. The strategy is to make convenience the experience.
“Stores are our special sauce,” said Sona Chawla, Kohl’s president and COO. “We have to win there, so we have to be constantly innovating there.” — Hilary Milnes
The state of CPG
CPG stalwarts Kimberly-Clark and Procter & Gamble both reported earnings this week. Kimberly-Clark reported net sales of $4.6 billion during the first quarter of 2019, with organic sales up 3% year-over-year, while P&G reported net sales of $16.5 billion, with organic sales up 5%. Here’s what else their earnings say about the state of the CPG industry.
Price increases: Both Kimberly-Clark and P&G looked to price increases this quarter to grow revenue. Kimberly-Clark said it upped the price on Pull-Ups and premium Huggies diapers in the first quarter, while P&G said that it raised prices on products in grooming, personal health care, feminine care, and organic baby care products.
The threat of private label: On Kimberly-Clark’s earnings call, one analyst asked CEO Michael Hsu what he made of mass retailers like Target encroaching upon Kimberly-Clark’s territory, particularly in baby products. Hsu’s response: “They’re still very receptive to big brands and big innovation. They are pursuing some other opportunities. But I think we’ll work with them as partners kind of leading these categories.”
Adult care is booming: As Digiday previously reported, new direct-to-consumer brands are targeting baby boomers, and so are legacy brands. Hsu said that Kimberly-Clark would be putting more advertising dollars behind some of its adult care brands, spending predominantly on digital.
Grooming is challenging: P&G saw the biggest sales drop in grooming — net sales decreased 8% year-over-year. But the company sought to reassure analysts that all is not lost in that category. “We have the potential to increase usage, bring men back into the category who have left, or increase shave frequency,” chief financial officer Jon Moeller said on the call. And the company’s recent acquisition of Walker & Co, may provide a much-needed boost in this category. — Anna Hensel
What else we’ve covered
Walmart in China. Walmart is holding strong in China, where it’s building a grocery business.
Loyalty rebooted. Retailers are switching up their loyalty strategies to focus less on discounts. Blame Amazon Prime.
Gyms are now acting like publishers. In the name of diversified revenue streams.
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